Past the tourist menus and the obvious picks — here are the restaurants and food experiences in Cartagena that actually matter, from a local who eats at all of them.
Cartagena's food scene has transformed in the last decade. It used to mean fried fish on the beach and overpriced menus for tourists near the clock tower. Now it's one of the most exciting culinary cities in Latin America, with chefs who trained in Bogotá and Barcelona bringing serious technique to Caribbean ingredients.
But you still need to know where to go. This is my current list — updated regularly, based on personal visits.
The Non-Negotiables (Go Here No Matter What)
La Cevichería
Still the best ceviche in Cartagena after more than a decade. Anthony Bourdain's visit put it on the global map but it was already extraordinary. The octopus ceviche is the thing to order. Go for lunch, arrive at noon when they open, and expect to wait. It's worth it.
El Santísimo
A rooftop restaurant inside a restored colonial convent with a view over the Old City rooftops. The food is modern Colombian — fresh, beautifully presented, deeply satisfying. Go for dinner on a Friday when there's live music. Reservations essential.
Carmen
The most technically impressive kitchen in Cartagena. Chef Rob Pevitts has built something special here — tasting menus that read like a love letter to Colombian ingredients. The space is stunning (a converted colonial mansion) and the wine list is serious. For a special night out, this is the answer.
For a Long Lunch
La Vitrola
Cuban music, colonial ceilings, white tablecloths and mojitos made with real mint. La Vitrola has been the most atmospheric restaurant in Cartagena for 25 years and it hasn't slipped. Order the seafood rice, a whole fried red snapper, and stay for three hours.
Alma
Inside the Hotel Casa San Agustín, Alma does farm-to-table Colombian cuisine with ingredients sourced from regional producers. The inner courtyard with the fountain is one of the most beautiful places to eat in the city. Go for Sunday brunch.
Street Food You Can't Miss
- Arepa de huevo — deep-fried corn dough stuffed with egg, from any street cart near the market
- Patacón — twice-fried plantain topped with hogao sauce and shrimp
- Cocadas — coconut sweets made by the Afro-Colombian women in the Old City
- Chicha de maíz — fermented corn drink, served cold on hot days near San Pedro Claver
- Fresh juice from the market — tamarind, lulo, corozo — drink them all
Best Neighborhood for Food: Getsemaní
The Getsemaní neighborhood has the most interesting and affordable food in Cartagena. Wander the streets around Parque del Centenario in the evenings and follow your nose. The restaurants change quickly but the quality stays high — and nothing is overpriced because locals eat here too.
Restaurant reservations in Cartagena during high season can be difficult to get on short notice. Part of what Mulata offers is guaranteed access to the most sought-after tables — relationships built over 11 years.← Back to all guides